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Re: Silicone question


David

haven't heard of vaseline diluted before so thats a new one for me

diluting johnsons paste wax with iso alcohol is an
industry popular method for silicone on silicone as is
diluted dish soap, they work for silicones and foams very very well, you'll find the prostetic guys tend to lean their releases to these two

Dave,

I know a ton of guys that use that and only that for release because they love to wash their pieces prior to finish that is done over the main media of either latex or urethane rubber/resin.

For the record you can pour tin into cured plat, but not the other way around, platinums are sensative to sulfers, tins, coppers, latexs and a couple of other things, yes they are the better silicone to use because of resistance to heat, decay, etc.... but they are more bitchy then tin by a long shot

but just like another bitchy material (FOAM) there are 100 reasons on the pro side and only 25 on the con side, so you use it when you want to

I would suggest that you read this before taking advise on silicone and then judge for yourself because these guys know silicone since they have been in the game forever. They originated the skin safe silicones and for about a year liferite which is 100 times better then body double but it was 1/4 the cost.... now I think they are about the same price and I still prefer literite, but everyone knows that I am not a fan of SO for anything, accept the silicone foams that Gene from Reynolds invented and that SO offers.

Here is the article

[sign in to see URL]


For the record:
My fav silicone are V-1068 and V-1065 in that order.
They are the most versatile tin silicone that I have ever used and and I have used a crap load of them over the years.





---
And what’s ten years? Well, it’s roughly how long it takes to put in ten thousand hours of hard practice. Ten thousand hours is the magic number of greatness.
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Re: Silicone question


great advice and help from all of you. MUCH appreciated!

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Dave
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"Fear is an Illusion"
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Re: Silicone question


@ David- Thanks!


I dont think i can run urethane in ultracal molds, can I? Not without sealing them- and then i cant use it for foam latex if i should get nutz..

Also, i have leaned toward latex skin because it is dull- and accepts paint if necessary.

i made ultracal molds to keep the investment to a minimum- as ill never see these dollars again. I happened to have ultracal laying around..



KB


PS.. im freezing everyday as i walk to and from my car at school. emoticon

Last edited by Kbillan, 10/16/2009, 8:31 pm


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Re: Silicone question


quote:

Kbillan wrote:

@ David- Thanks!


I dont think i can run urethane in ultracal molds, can I? Not without sealing them- and then i cant use it for foam latex if i should get nutz..

Also, i have leaned toward latex skin because it is dull- and accepts paint if necessary.

i made ultracal molds to keep the investment to a minimum- as ill never see these dollars again. I happened to have ultracal laying around..



KB


PS.. im freezing everyday as i walk to and from my car at school. emoticon



@keith.

I know you have already made moulds but something to consider for the future would be to make fiberglass moulds. That way you could cast urethane, foam, silicone or latex (if painted in layers). Its dirt cheap plus your moulds will be stronger and lighter that plaster.

If your gonna try and get into foam latex, fiberglass moulds are the way to go bud.
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resinsamurai Profile
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Re: Silicone question


that is a very very good point Rich, one I had completely forgotten about till you just said that

as long as you don't mind working with glass
which I Hate and !@#$ like a little girl the entire time I work with it LMAO!!!

but glass molds never degrade in detail
buuuuuuuut, you have to use release and
once in a while wash the mold and remove the wax build up and then its like having a brand new mold again

the batshop used fiberglass molds to run all their foam in

all of the silicone prosthetics from CLICK by Rick Baker were are done in fiberglass molds, in fact I think there is a good read about that in MakeFX magazine.


and lastly, a certain pirate !@#$ used to run all his latex stuff by painting in layers of latex one after another to get the desired thickness, not to give him credit for anything because of how many issues that created

painting layers of latex into your molds actually gives you a much stronger latex when it is run thin as compared to slush cast, basically because the fibers align differently blah blah blah

but that would mean using latex
another material I never use anymore
unless I am making a bat cape and its been
atleast 6 months since I last dealt with ammonia
fumes

can't say that I miss it













---
And what’s ten years? Well, it’s roughly how long it takes to put in ten thousand hours of hard practice. Ten thousand hours is the magic number of greatness.
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Re: Silicone question


The problem with glass is the stink when making it. I work in my basement and I get enough static when I use contact cement LOL.
Maybe next summer I'll try glass, when I can work outside...

Run me through it. What, beauty coat in gel, then a few layers of mat..?

---
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10/17/2009, 12:49 pm Link to this post Send Email to Kbillan   Send PM to Kbillan
 
resinsamurai Profile
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Re: Silicone question


then use epoxy instead, I should have been more specific when I was talking about what the industry guys use
they use epoxy not fiberglass resin

mainly because they bake it and baked epoxy is near indestructible and because the epoxy polymer is finer and
can pickup and hold more detail

annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd



IT DOESN"T STINK

it smells like dirt LOL


I dont care about the smell, I whine and !@#$ about the glass, but carlos is a fiberglass god and has ten years of boat building under his belt, so he taught me
new ways to use old products so I hate it a little less

either way

use baleen glass mat with your resins (epoxy, fiberglass, polyurethane) and you will have less issue
baleen is thin and fine, about as thin as paper, it takes resin so much easier because its so thin, so air bubbles are a thing of the past, and your piece ends up so much lighter because two layers of baleen are as thin as one layer of regular glass




---
And what’s ten years? Well, it’s roughly how long it takes to put in ten thousand hours of hard practice. Ten thousand hours is the magic number of greatness.
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Re: Silicone question


That is some incredible stuff! It's pretty much limitless as to what angles you can take going about making stuff in this industry, isn't it? That's awesome.

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Re: Silicone question


Great info. I have been meaning to play with epoxy resin for some time now. I'm going to be moving this thread to the "how did they do that" [sign in to see URL] case anyone wonders where it went.

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Check Out this Forum: THE CAVE
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resinsamurai Profile
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Re: Silicone question


Good time to move it over I guess.





Epoxy is fun, I've been using it for nearly 15 years
but only for FX stuff for about 3 I think. Prior to that I
used it all the time when we made custom wood architectural pieces. The stuff stands up to everything and
rarely changes color even after heavy UV exposure.


I encouraged Keith to make an epoxy belt at some point when he ever gets the chance, if he ran each link in epoxy and backed it, it would be as strong as steel but 1/10th the weight

When I do my rang runs I want to make a couple in epoxy, then I can not worry about throwing them around since they will hold up but not do the damage that a steel rang would



---
And what’s ten years? Well, it’s roughly how long it takes to put in ten thousand hours of hard practice. Ten thousand hours is the magic number of greatness.
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